Utrecht: a historic city with a playful spirit

When expats first land in the Netherlands, the capital Amsterdam often takes centre stage. But just a 30-minute train ride away lies Utrecht – smaller, more intimate, yet equally full of charm. The Netherlands’ fourth-largest city is an inspiring blend of medieval beauty, modern creativity and youthful energy. It’s a place where history and innovation meet on every street corner, and where expats often find themselves falling in love with the city’s laid-back vibe and authentic Dutch character.

A short history of Utrecht
Utrecht’s story begins nearly 2,000 years ago, when the Romans built a fortress here on the northern frontier of their empire. The traces of that era are still visible today; at sites like Castellum Hoge Woerd in Leidsche Rijn, you can explore a reconstructed Roman fort and discover artifacts from the city’s ancient past.

During the Middle Ages, Utrecht became a powerful religious centre. The Dom Cathedral, with its iconic 112-metre Dom Tower, symbolized this influence and still dominates the skyline. Climbing its 465 steps remains the ultimate Utrecht rite of passage, rewarding visitors with sweeping views over the city and countryside.

Over the centuries, Utrecht has continued to reinvent itself. In the 20th century, it gave the world Gerrit Rietveld and the De Stijl design movement, whose radical simplicity still influences architecture and design worldwide. Today, the Rietveld Schröder House, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is one of the city’s most striking modern landmarks.

Since 2017, Utrecht has been recognized as a UNESCO City of Literature, joining a global network of creative cities. Festivals, readings and book fairs now form part of the cultural calendar, reflecting the city’s centuries-old love of ideas and words.

The unique canals of Utrecht
If there’s one feature that defines Utrecht, it’s the canals – but not the kind you’ve seen in Amsterdam. Utrecht’s canals are special because of their two-level system. At street level you’ll find shops and terraces, but at water level you’ll see vaulted cellars (werfkelders) that were once used for storage and trade. Today, these historic spaces have been transformed into cafés, restaurants, wine bars and quirky boutiques.

This setup gives Utrecht a distinct character, and locals will tell you it’s a cultural injustice that the canals haven’t (yet) been awarded UNESCO status. To truly experience them, rent a canoe or sup board and explore at your own pace. As you glide under low bridges and past medieval warehouses, you’ll get a sense of how unique Utrecht’s waterways really are. And if you need a refreshment, there’s even a café, Tijm, with a dedicated window serving drinks directly to people on the water.

Culture, creativity, and quirky museums
Utrecht is a city that never sits still. Its cultural heart beats strongly at TivoliVredenburg, a futuristic music complex with five concert halls under one roof. From classical symphonies to techno parties, there’s something for every taste.

Art lovers shouldn’t miss the Centraal Museum, which houses works by old masters, contemporary artists and Utrecht’s design icons, including Rietveld’s iconic red and blue chair. Right next door is the Nijntje (Miffy) Museum, dedicated to Dick Bruna’s beloved cartoon bunny who was born in Utrecht. It’s a playful introduction to art and storytelling for children, but secretly just as enjoyable for grown-ups.

For something different, visit the Spoorwegmuseum (Railway Museum), where vintage locomotives and interactive exhibits bring the history of Dutch railways to life. It’s one of those places that will turn even the most reluctant trainspotter into an enthusiast.

And don’t forget the DomUnder experience beneath Dom Square, where interactive tours take you underground to uncover layers of Roman, medieval and modern history right beneath your feet.

Neighbourhoods worth exploring
While the historic centre gets most of the attention, Utrecht’s neighbourhoods each have their own charm.

  • Wittevrouwen: With its grand 19th-century houses and leafy Wilhelminapark, this is the place for a picnic or relaxed afternoon stroll. The neighbourhood also has some of Utrecht’s coziest cafés and restaurants.
  • Lombok: Multicultural and vibrant, Lombok is where you’ll find exotic supermarkets, spice shops and Middle Eastern eateries. It’s a sensory adventure that reflects Utrecht’s diverse community.
  • Werkspoorkwartier: Once an industrial area, this neighbourhood has transformed into a creative hub. Cultural hotspot De Nijverheid offers exhibitions, performances and even a floating gallery called EXBoot. It feels a little like Berlin, but with a distinctly Utrecht twist.

Wherever you go, you’ll notice Utrecht’s commitment to sustainability. With car-free streets, bike-priority zones and green initiatives like façade gardens, Utrecht is often ranked among the world’s most bike-friendly and environmentally conscious cities.

Green spaces and outdoor life
Step beyond the city centre and you’ll find charming neighbourhoods with their own character. Parks are never far away, and each has its own character.

  • Griftpark: Known for its playgrounds, skate park and urban vibe; perfect for families and young people.
  • Julianapark: A favourite among locals for its petting zoo and relaxed atmosphere.
  • Park Transwijk: Famous for hosting the annual Liberation Festival, it’s a wide-open space ideal for barbecues and gatherings.
  • Wilhelminapark: The jewel of Wittevrouwen, where stately trees and open lawns invite you to slow down.

Step just outside the city on your bike, and you’ll find castles, forts and countryside within 30 minutes. The New Dutch Waterline offers scenic cycling routes past historic fortresses, while the nearby Kromme Rijn river valley offers a welcome escape into the countryside.

Everyday Utrecht: coffee, bikes, and bookstores
To really feel at home in Utrecht, embrace the daily rituals that locals love. Start with coffee at one of the coffee spots. Then hop on your bike, because here, cycling is not just a way to get around, it’s a way of life. Utrecht’s central train station is also home to the world’s largest bicycle parking garage, with space for over 12,000 bikes. It’s a jaw-dropping sight that symbolizes the city’s cycling culture.

And since Utrecht is a UNESCO City of Literature, it’s worth visiting some of its many independent bookstores or attending one of its literary festivals. Reading a book by the canal, with a coffee in hand, might be the most Utrecht thing you can do.

Why Utrecht should be on your list
For expats, Utrecht offers a perfect mix: international enough to feel welcoming, yet authentic enough to give you a real taste of Dutch life. It’s a city that combines centuries of history with youthful energy, cozy cafés with world-class museums, and peaceful parks with vibrant nightlife.

Whether you’re here for a day trip or planning to stay longer, Utrecht has a way of drawing you in. Maybe it’s the two-level canals, the sound of bicycles on cobblestones, or the fact that within minutes you can swap city streets for green landscapes. Whatever it is, Utrecht is more than just a destination, it’s an experience that invites you to slow down, explore and connect.

So next time someone asks if you’ve been to Amsterdam, smile and say: Yes – but have you discovered Utrecht yet?